Kingdom Plantae
Phylum Magnoliophyta
Class Magnoliopsida (Dicotyledons)
Sub-Class Rosidae
Order Rosales
Family Crassulaceae
Genus Echeveria
Species Approximately 150
A member of the
succulent family
Crassulaceae (making them relatives of
kalanchoe and
jade plant), very similar in appearance to
sempervivum (though
echeveria tends to have thicker more
succulent appearing leaves). The species
echeveria elegans is often referred to as
hens and chicks.
Echeveria leaves range in colour from waxy white to lovely maroon tipped grey-green (but are brighter green during their
summer growing season). Many species will have bristly hairs (called
cilia) on the leaf margins or covering the entire leaf. These plants produce bell-shaped
flowers which are usually quite impressive (given the small size of the plant) and range in colour from yellow and oranges to deep reds. Unlike
sempervivum,
echeveria rosettes will not die after
flowering (
polycarpic, versus
monocarpic).
The
genus was named for Atanasio Echeverria, a Mexican botanical painter. These plants are natives of mountainous semi-
desert areas of South and Central America. They grow in compact, mat-forming
rosettes.
Echeveria will propagate themselves through the formation of offshoots, also called "pups" or "chickens", although most species do not produce nearly as many offshoots as a typical
sempervivum. In
cultivation, the grower would propagate
echeveria using
stem cuttings (fondly called "
decapitation" because the center of the
rosette is cut off and potted), or through
leaf cuttings.
These plants are fairly
delicate, and are not recommended for an inexperienced
gardener. They are tricky primarily in their sensitivity to over-watering (even what seems like insignificant over-watering can be
fatal). As well,
echeveria is sensitive to being handled, as skin oil can damage leaves.
CONDITIONS PREFERRED:
Unlike
sempervivum,
echeveria doesn't tolerate cold well. Temperatures below freezing
will kill the plant, and with many species a temperature below 41° (
fahrenheit) can be fatal. As with most
Crassulaceae,
echeveria can tolerate moderately poor
soil conditions, so long as it is well draining. Bright
light is integral to the proper growth of this genus. Plants grown in low-light will grow tall and spindly and will eventually die due to
etiolation.
Allow the
soil to completely dry out before watering, and be careful to avoid getting
water on the leaves (this is of utmost importance!). An overwatered
echeveria is a doomed
echeveria. In winter, the plants will require less water, as reduced
temperature and
humidity will induce
dormancy. If you are unsure when to water your
echeveria, watch the lower most leaves for signs of drying and water them then.
Echeveria is FAR more likely to
survive under-watering than over-watering.
Ideal temperatures for
echeveria is 50° to 55° at night and 68° to 72° during the day (
fahrenheit).
PROPAGATION:
As mentioned above, the plant self-propagates itself through offshoots, and given time one plant will form a dense mat of many. In
cultivation, however, it is more common for the grower to use stem or leaf cutting methods.
Leaf cuttings are the safest, as you leave the majority of the original plant intact -- if the
propagation attempt fails you have not seriously altered the appearance of the
mother plant.
Leaf cutting entails cutting a young
leaf from near the center of the rosette. Leave the
leaf out in the open air for a few hours to allow the wound to callous over. Dip the leaf into rooting hormone (such as RootOne, which can be purchased almost anywhere you buy plants) and place the leaf (cut-side down) into slightly moist
succulent mix potting soil (even better is very lightly moist
sand). Soon, a new
rosette will grow from the base of the leaf. As soon as enough roots are present to repot, remove the original leaf cutting and repot the
rosette.
PRUNING AND GENERAL CARE:
Pruning:
No pruning is necessary, although
echeveria will benefit from a beheading (
stem cutting) every 2-3 years. Be sure to keep the plant dry, and remove any leaves which have
died. This will help to avoid
rot and bugs. Avoid touching the healthy leaves of the
plant, as your body
oils will leave marks.
Tips:
- To save a plant which has begin to grow tall due to a lack of light (etiolation), cut the elongated stem as close to the rosette as possible. Allow the cut to callous by leaving it in the open air for a few hours. Dip the cut into a rooting hormone (such as RootOne, which can be purchased almost anywhere you buy plants) and place into slightly moist succulent mix potting soil (even better is very lightly moist sand). Soon this will form it's own roots and grow as normal.
- Also see the tips section in hens and chicks
Problems:
In the event of an unhealthy plant, the first thing to examine is your watering habits. The most common problem is root rot due to overwatering. If the
soil is too
wet, don't hope it will safely dry out so long as you don't water it for a while. Replace the soil immediately, but be very careful in handling your
echeveria.
One of the most common pests to
houseplants is the mealybug, and your
echeveria may fall prey to this pest. However, due to the tightly packed leaves, more often than not the
mealybugs will attack the
roots. This makes them far less visible than
mealybugs which attack leaf-stem junctions. The symptoms of a root mealybug infestation is slowed or stopped growth (though in winter this is a normal sign of
dormancy). If this occurs without apparent cause, remove the plant from the pot and examine the roots. A white cottony substance on the roots and in the soil is a sure sign of mealybug infestation. Remove all
soil and wash the roots gently. Remove any roots which appear damaged with a sharp
sterile knife or
scissors. Let them dry very throroughly before replanting.
In addition to
mealybugs, a common pest to
echeveria is the
vine wevil, particularly when potted. Prevention is difficult and systemic pesticides are too likely to hurt your
echeveria.
Behead the sucker and start again in fresh
soil.